Golden Burma - Travel Stories from Yangon and Mandalay

I have just returned from Myanmar and I absolutely loved the country! From the minute I stepped off the plane, I couldn't help but marvel at the modernity and cleanliness of the airport and its facilities. I had the impression that Myanmar would be undeveloped since it has been under sanctions for so long.

Yangon International Airport 

Notice how spacious and wide the road is! 

Immigration and customs were a breeze. I had to take a cab to the hotel so the next immediate thing that sprang to mind was to change my US bills into the local currency `kyat'. The exchange rate was not favorable at the airport but I had no choice. I was told the cab fare would be 5000 kyat, so next time it will be simpler to get some leftover kyat currency from friends who have visited. Furthermore, I was given eighty three 1000 kyat bills for US$100, so I ended up with a pile of kyat almost an inch thick which wouldn't fit into my zipper wallet!

The cab ride to the hotel was not a hassle at all although I ended up paying 6000 kyat. The well-tarred 4 lane road leading from the airport to Yangon was another pleasant surprise. The only exception was the cars, which were on the average about 15 - 20 years old, and most of them didn't have air conditioning. The military junta had imposed a high import tax on cars and thus owners stretch the use of them as long as possible. But all this will change soon with the relaxation of sanctions and new reforms on car imports. This was already evident from the handful of new cars, mostly Japanese models, on the roads. Nevertheless, the old cars still seem to run pretty well although the non-air conditioning is a bane in the hot and humid weather, and the wind kept blowing dusty hot air into my face! I can't imagine what will happen during the rainy season, wound up windows with no air circulation?

I checked into the Inya Lake Hotel (www.inyalakehotel.com), a 3.5 - 5 star hotel after a 20 minute cab ride. The hotel was set amidst a lush 37 acres of green and also a big lake. The greenery was both a pleasant and pretty sight. I was told that room rates in Yangon had soared tremendously in the past one year. The room cost was US$150 per night and this was not even the peak season. Compare this to the average monthly wage of a Burmese worker at US$40 a month! A night's stay would be able to feed 4 chambermaids! It was a decent but basic room which probably would have cost just US$80 in Bangkok, but then again there are more hotels in Bangkok and thus more competition too. Apparently the 5 star Traders Hotel (www.shangri-la.com/yangon/traders) used to cost only US$80 a night only a year ago but now you need to fork out US$280 for a night's stay! Scarcity and soaring demand definitely have a role to play in this. Anyway US$150 per night was certainly too expensive, even for a triple sharing room; so we decided to move to Winner Inn for the subsequent nights which cost only US$35 per night for our subsequent stay in Yangon (www.winnerinnmyanmar.com)

Pansodan Art Gallery

Inside the Pansodan Art Gallery

Our first stop in Yangon was at the Pansodan Art Gallery (http://pansuriya.wordpress.com/pansodan-art-gallery/) where we had been invited for lunch by the owner, Mr Aung Soe Min. Aung's gallery was opened in 2008.  If you want to savor Burmese art, you have certainly come to the right place! The gallery's setting is simple and cosy, where you can sit on the long wooden bench and drink tea, admire the paintings while chatting with other customers. Thumbs up too for the free wifi in the gallery which added to its popularity. Wifi (which you do not have to pay for) is rarely available in Yangon. Furthermore the local telecommunication network doesn't support the 3G standard that is used in other countries. The gallery houses paintings ranging from traditional to contemporary pieces, by blossoming painters to established artists.

Aung is a connoisseur and an eclectic collector; amongst his collections are old movie posters from Burmese film and television; black and white photographs of Burmese life and countryside which he reprints for sale, and also old portraits of individuals which were later painted on for a colored picture effect. He even has a couple of Mao Tse Tong's Cultural Revolution propaganda posters; all you need is unhurried time to look through all the stacked canvases scattered around in his gallery, and you might pick up something interesting! There is enough variety of different art themes which will appeal to a wide array of art enthusiasts. Do ask Aung about Burmese paintings and artists and he will happily share his knowledge with you. 

The Bogyoke Aung San Market, which is nearly 100 years old, is a must visit site in Yangon even if you do not have any intention to shop. Although once you are in the market itself, you might be swayed to buy something. The famous market is located down the main road from Traders Hotel and it takes only a mere 15 minute to walk there from Pasodan. This is one of the most interesting markets I have ever visited. The market is divided into sections which sell gold and silver jewelry, various shades and grades of jade and gemstones like rubies, spinels and sapphires; clothes, textile and shoes; antiques and crafts; lacquerware; wood carvings; rattan and straw products. Burma is one of the world's largest producer of jadeite and rubies and one could get some good bargains here if you know what you are looking for! The market is pretty commercialized and retailers tend to quote prices on the higher end, which I only knew after my trip to Mandalay. But there were still some really surprisingly good finds, like an Akha tribe woven cotton wallet, the design was so unique I couldn't resist buying!

One particular shop to check out is the Yoyamay Ethnographic Textile Gallery, located on the first floor of the main front building of the market towards the the right end of the building if you stand in front of it. It is like a miniature museum featuring loads of ethnic handwoven textile. Just locate the partially hidden flight of stairs near Taw Win Art Gallery at the main entrance of the market to go up to the first floor. Yoyoma stocks classic and contemporary hand-woven textile; from various Burmese ethnicities like the Chin, Naga, Kachin and Karen tribes.  Nu Shwe, the proprietress herself, is from the Chin tribe and is very knowledgeable about the different types of handwoven textile Yoyamay carries. The textile comes in different motives and designs, according to the different tribal folk art and legacies passed down through the generations. 

A Kachin Handwoven Blanket

I was impressed by the wide range of textile selection at Yoyamay. Here you can feast your eyes on the various ethnic fabric which is made into shawls, blankets, tribal skirts and jackets; daily items which the minority tribes use. Next to Yoyamay is Heritage Gallery, which sells handicrafts. They have got an interesting mix of Burmese items like antique lacquer wear and vintage items from Imperial British days. While Yoyamay is `one of its kind' type of shop, you can find similar wares and art and crafts from other stalls in Bogyoke Market too. 

Generally the traders are open and used to price negotiation, so this is a chance to test out your bargaining skills! Of course having a good eye for antiques and the ability to differentiate fine workmanship will come in handy too in securing the best finds. The only downside to shopping in Burma is that credit cards are virtually non-existent, and you can't withdraw from ATMs, it is an economy run on cash alone! I was told by this lady proprietress that when her neighbor sold their house, rice bags were used to ferry the cash which filled three truck loads, and three people were specially hired to just count the money!

A visit to Yangon will not be complete without going to the majestic Shwedagon Pagoda. This is the most sacred site of all Buddhist temples. Depending on which side of the aircraft you are seated on, and if you have a window seat, you will see the golden stupa shining in the sun or glowing in the dark when the plane makes its descent into Yangon. 

The Shwedagon Pagoda's Golden Stupa at dusk

We were lucky to choose the best time to visit, which I reckon is dusk, just before nightfall. The golden hues of the stupa amidst the changing blue skies from dusk to night was a sight to behold. As the sky became darker, and as the powerful flood lights cast their shine on the stupa, the more golden it appeared to be. A friendly local tourist guide told us that the pagoda was about 2,600 years old and that 3 tons of gold were used for the stupa surface. The gold metal is processed into thin sheets of gold leaves which are used to adorn the stupa and the temples until today. The entire pagoda was bathed in a golden sheen. Not only was gold used, but gemstones like diamonds of multi carats were studded onto some stupa steeples, and from a certain angle, one could view the range of colors exuded by white diamonds dispersed by light. It was certainly fascinating. The chimes which also adorned the steeples rang melodiously in the wind and this added to the serenity and calmness of the site. Dozens of devotees could be found praying and paying homage to the Buddha statues housed in different shrines.

Our next city on our itinerary was Mandalay, which was an hour and twenty five minute flight away from Yangon towards a north easterly direction. Like Yangon, the airport was also newly built and very modern, although there didn't seem to be air condition circulating. We found out later that electrical energy is a very scarce commodity in Mandalay and especially during the hot season from March to May, where power needs peak. Temperatures during this time can rise to 42 degrees Celsius. The city itself is a 45 minute drive from the airport on a new 4 lane expressway and the taxi fare was based on a per person fare of 4000 kyat rather than a whole car.

Mandalay is the last royal capital of Burma and is also an economic and cultural hub for the north. The city itself is neatly laid out in a grid pattern and judging from the retail activity in the shops which I observed along our way to the hotel, I could conclude that the economy certainly seemed vibrant. The city is both known for its monks and millionaires who are in the jade and gemstones business. The Mandalay City Hotel was an oasis of calm and serenity although it was just located off a very busy street. Hotel rates here were certainly more reasonable at US$75 per night.

It was by a stroke of good luck that we came across Thein Han, our guide and driver while we were having lunch at the Mana Restaurant just s stone's throw away from our hotel. We noticed that there were no taxis in Mandalay, or at least these taxis do not have the `taxi' sign advertised at the top of their cars. So we asked the waiter if he knew how we could get around in Mandalay and he contacted Thein Han, who happened to be also having lunch in the same restaurant. I found out later that Thein Han's usual hangout is at the Royal Guesthouse next door, and he is known to all in the guesthouse and also the restaurant as a tourist guide cum driver. It turned out that his rates were very reasonable, a Mandalay Hill and City tour costs US$25, and US$35 for a trip outside Mandalay covering Amarapura, Inwa Lake and Sagay Hill. Possibly the best way to find him is to call the Royal Guesthouse, or his mobile at +95 9402515048 or email him at komomofr@gmail.com

Thein Han 

Since Mandalay is well known to be a center for Burmese arts and handicrafts, we were excited to see what it could offer. Thein Han didn't disappoint, he brought us to silk and cotton weave factories and shops, tapestry arts and antiques shops; silversmiths and jewelry shops. If you intend to buy antiques and local crafts, Mandalay's prices are definitely better and you could also bargain. I found some really beautiful aged lacquer boxes at Soe Moe, and my friends some beautiful cotton and silk material from Shwe Sin Tai Silk House. For gemstones and semi-precious rocks, Rocky Gems and Jewelry Trading has some really good pieces. Do note that most of these handicraft factories are located outside of Mandalay on the way to Amarapura so make sure you cover your sightseeing trip with stop-overs at these shops along the way.





For sightseeing, Mandalay Hill, the Mandalay Palace, the Kuthodaw Pagoda (or the famous White Pagoda) and the Shwenandaw Monastery is a must see. I would recommend putting aside at least 4 - 5 hours for these sights. First start with Mandalay Hill, where you can be dropped off by car at the top at the Sutaungpyei Pagoda. You can also have a panoramic view of Mandalay and its surroundings at the top of the hill. From there you just need to walk down the steps through a series of pagodas and shrines until you reach the two great white lions which guard the entrance to the hill. Then make your way to the White Pagoda, where over 700 mini white stupas housing marble slabs with Buddhist scripture inscriptions surround the temple complex. The `white' stupas is a wonderful yet different attraction as all temples and stupas are gold. The palace itself is interesting, where you can see fine Burmese teak architecture; while the Shwenandaw Monastery is a 19th century monastery made entirely of teak wood. In some parts of the monastery, the teak carvings were still well preserved while some were weathered and aged.

Views from Mandalay Hill

The famous Kudothaw White Pagoda

The Shwenandaw Monastery

The Longest Teak Bridge in the World

In Amarapura, do not miss the famous U Bein teak bridge, at 1.2 km long, this bridge is the longest teak bridge in the world. From there you could also go to Inwa Lake, where you can take a boat across to the other bank, and hop on to a horse cart and go around the countryside which is very scenic and pretty. The pagodas here were different as they resembled those found in Cambodia. Don't be surprised if a local villager on her bicycle trails the horse cart you are riding on to sell you temple bells and monastery chimes. They turned out to be really good buys as these brass made bells and chimes cost almost 6 times more if you buy them in shops in Yangon or Mandalay! The thicker the brass is, the more melodious the chime or sound.

Thein Han also brought us to a monks' college, where during lunch time, you could see all 1500 monks queue up to get rice in their alm bowls before proceeding to their canteen for a sit down meal! It was an amazing sight and quite a `ceremony' indeed. Although personally I would feel really self-conscious being video-ed or photographed by visiting tourists.

I was also very surprised by how delicious Burmese cuisine is, which is influenced by Chinese and Indian cultures; it is common to see stir fries, egg omelette, different types of curries but milder and less spicy on the restaurants' menu. I found Burmese food to be so delicious and appetizing that we had it for every meal. Furthermore, it is also the cheapest kind of food that you can find compared to European fare. Still, eating at Burmese restaurants would cost US$3.00 - US$4.00 per person on the average and is still expensive by local standards.

If you happen to visit in the right season which is the hot season (March - May) like we did, do try the Burmese mangoes which are delicious indeed, not only do they smell like Indian mangoes, they also taste like Indian mangoes where the flesh is smooth and has no fiber.





Burma is definitely amazing. I would certainly be back again, this time to see Bagan and the Shan state!

Schoolboys on bikes in Snake Pagoda Village

Some handy information on Burma:

Weather

The rainy season starts in May and lasts until October with heavy rains peaking in July. November through February are cooler months and rainfall is sporadic. Avoid March to May, which are the hot months where temperature in the inland (Mandalay and Bagan) can soar up to 42 degrees Celsius with high humidity. I have observed that drainage is rather poor so floods may common during the rainy season although I have not experienced that for myself, but only on hear say from the locals.

What to Bring and Wear

The majority of Burmese are devout Buddhists and the traditional costume is the `longyi' - which is a long `sarong' or `skirt' which the men and women wear. Ideally you should respect the local culture so always wear something that covers up your upper legs at least until below the knee level. It is also more practical not to wear shorts or skirts because you might not be allowed to enter temples and shrines. Bring clothes which allow your skin to breathe, like linen and cotton as the humidity could be very high which leaves you sweating all day. 

Transportation

There are taxis in Yangon and Mandalay. However, in Mandalay, taxis may be your ordinary home-owned car with the owner turned taxi driver. We actually rode back to the hotel in a pick-up van which was uncovered. Generally the fare is measured by the distance, and it is usually 3000 kyat below a 10km ride, and 3000 kyat is pretty much the standard fare that the drivers start with as a bargaining point. Just remember 3000 kyat (as of June 2012) is on the higher end of the usual fare, so if you have been around the city enough and somewhat know the distance from Point A to Point B, you could get away with even 1500 kyat or 2000 kyat. 

To travel from a city to another, the best option would be to take the domestic flight. It is more expensive as foreigners are charged higher but it is the most convenient and time saving mode of transportation. A return air fare from Yangon to Mandalay costs US$109 per way. The other option is to hire a driver and a car, but only if you are keen to stop at some towns along the way and you have plenty of time to boot. Generally the road condition is good, but a road trip from Yangon to Mandalay would be approximately 15 hours while flight time is only 90 minutes one way. Buses generally take longer and trains are the slowest. 

Food

There are more restaurants and international cuisine in Yangon but the selection dwindles in Mandalay. International cuisine costs more than local Burmese food. Since we were on a shoe-string budget, we only dined in Burmese restaurants (or coffee shops) where the food is only cooked when ordered. However some restaurants would have pre-cooked food like curry dishes and so pick one which has a high customer turnover. Avoid street food or anything raw, including sashimi or sushi joints. And if you have a weak stomach, it is best to stay away from drinks served with ice. A typical Burmese meal would set you back at 5000 kyat per person. Not cheap at all by local standards but still a pretty good deal for a tourist.